Gorillas and me in the mist and mud

(This will be entirely boring for folks not interested in the process of gorilla trekking in Rwanda)


So last time I checked in I bragged about our toughness i.e our going independent in Rwanda. We made it, and we loved it. 


Here's what I said a few weeks back (in case you missed it):

After days and days of reading forum after forum about trusted and untrusted gorilla tours I decided to just contact the Rwanda Development Board (formally ORTPN) and organise everything directly with them. I sent off a quick email to reservation@rwandatourism.com and got a quick reply from Norbert. He gave me some date options, I wired 1000 US bucks to the RDB bank account (not going lie, I was extremely nervous this - why is his email address .com?!?!) and then I emailed him a copy of my bank transfer. Two weeks later (yep, I did all of this two weeks before coming to Rwanda. Probably not a good idea in high season) I rock up to the new RDB offices, not the ORPTN building listed on the lonely planet map, and I picked up my two permits. 

Piece. Of. Cake. 

So, what happened next?

With gorilla permits in hand we needed to find out way from Kigali to Musanze and there were a few options. You could get a driver for about 80 US bucks, actually if you could make it 100 US bucks and I think your driver will pick you up at the crack of dawn on your gorilla day (GD), drive you up and over the mountains to Musanze, wait while you trek and then drive you back to Kigali all in one day. Might seem efficient but you'll miss out on Musanze. And Musanze was our favourite place - so don't do that. 

If you wanna be hi-so about it you can get a driver. Actually, it might be nice as there were some kodak moments that whizzed past us on our bus journey. But the bus was fine - a little cramped with our bags - but bearable for a two hour journey. We went with Virunga Express, departed from the main bus terminal in Kigali (again, ignore the LP map) and cost us about $3 each. It was a scramble getting on the bus, every man for himself, but somehow everyone ended up with a seat. 

Two hours later and we were checking into the Muhabura and sitting on porch with a Primus beer. 

A great option - for once we agreed with the LP

The Virungas line the skyline that surround this beautiful little town and Mzungos (foreigners) are a common sight because of the gorillas. Don't think that means you wont get any attention though!

This hotel cost about $40 a night, had a fair restaurant and a strong wifi signal (in the restaurant, it was dodgy in the rooms). Noel at the reception desk was a star and he sorted everything out for us as we prepared for our GD (Gorilla Day, remember?). Here is where the money starts flying out of your pocket again...

Here is what will happen on your GD:

1. You need to be at the park headquarters at 7am
2. While at the park headquarters you will be assigned a group and you will watch some traditional dancing/singing (Trashtastically touristy)
3. Once you have a group you will have a trek starting point (the treks do not begin from the headquarters)
4. You drive anywhere from 15 minutes to 1 hour to your assigned starting point
5. Trek to and from the most magical experience of your travelling life
6. Drive back to your hotel. 

You could be doing all of this with your driver from Kigali and about now it is starting to feel like you should have gone with his $100 all inclusive offer. (But again, you don't want to miss out on a couple of days chilling in Musanze). Instead you get yourself a driver from Musanze and the rate is pretty standard. It'll be $80 a car as long as you aren't assigned the far group (Susa family) in which case it'll be $100. We decided not to take any chances here. The lonely planet says that you could hitchhike but I think it'd be tricky. If you're paying $500 for the gorilla trek, you can find $80 for your driver. If you find meet other people in your hotel and want to split the cost of the driver keep in mind that they will then be a part of your trekking group. The guides at the headquarters give you a look up and down and decide on your fitness levels. Don't team up with folks that are way fitter or way less fit. You might not get the trek that is right for you!

Mike - my porter and hand holder

Also, think about getting a porter. They don't just carry your bags. They will carry you. Mike held my hand like my high school sweetheart for almost the entire trek. Keep in mind that our trek was more like a vertical scramble through wild celery, mud and (eventually) gorilla poo. 

A porter will set you back $10 + tips. You should be tipping your guide and your trackers too. Yes, it all adds up. But the LP is right when is politely reminds us not to be tight asses. Everyone knows you paid $500 for the gorilla permit. Don't be a tight ass. Tip your guides etc. 

Hey, at the end of the day you will have photos and memories like these:

Sarah and I get our first glimpse

Our best little friend just contemplating life. 

Heart was racing!

To summarise, your GD will go like this:

1. The day before you trekking day you need to find yourself a driver. Ask at your hotel, they will call someone. ($80 + tips) 
2. Leave early enough in the morning to make it to the headquarters - I think we left at 6am
3. Enjoy some tea and coffee at the base of the Virungas while locals dance and your guides fight for your spot on the trekking group you asked for (our options were hard, medium and easy - we went with medium)
4. Once all of the groups are finalised you are shuffled to a display board to learn about your new best friends. Queue awesome jokes from the guides. 
5. Get back into your cars with your drivers and drive to your trekking starting point. Ours was probably 20 minutes away through very muddy farmland.
6. Get your porter/s. Sarah and I shared one, if I did it again I'd probably get one each. ($10 + tips)
7. Start the adventure of a lifetime. 
8. When you return (I think we were back down at about 1pm) your drivers will be waiting - were they there all day? Unclear. (Tip the guide)
9. Drive back in the direction of the headquarters stopping at a gift shop for a mandatory "I trekked to see the Gorillas" t-shirt. (~$5)
10. Back to the hotel. 

What are you waiting for?